Organic Lawns for America

Understanding your Soil Test

One of the keys to eliminating the use of chemical fertilizers and chemical pesticides from your lawn care program is to have a very good understanding of what is going on with your soil.  The key to a healthy organic lawn is to have healthy organic soil and without studying the make up of that soil we can’t fully understand how to make changes.  The standard Organic Lawns for America program will fulfill the majority of your lawns needs when it comes to macro and micronutrients.  In most cases your soil will already contain the necessary elements to produce a healthy lawn but your grass is unable to use them because the soil is void of biological activity.  The vitamins, nutrients and minerals in our products will detoxify and buffer the salts and chemicals that prevent that biological activity from flourishing.  However, as mentioned before it is very important to verify that all the factors that go into this equation are in a desirable range.  Usually, if they are not we can make simple adjustments.  These small adjustments will speed up the process of detoxifying your soil and building soil-improving microbes. The more healthy and alive your soil is, the more healthy and alive your lawn is!  When your soil is healthy and your lawn is healthy you begin see common lawn care problems like weeds, disease and drought become much less of an issue.

One setback that we have in the organic lawn care industry is that there isn’t a soil test that is designed specifically for organic lawn care recommendations.  Every soil test that is performed by universities, soil labs and even “do it yourself” kits will give you recommendations for Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium in terms of synthetic fertilizer.  We, in the organic frame of mind continue to contend that this is not the best way to have a healthy lawn.  (In fact we contend that it actually sterilizes the soil in the long term.)  The soil test that is enclosed works very well in all categories except for the macro nutrient recommendations (N P K), which are expressed in pounds per thousand square feet of chemical fertilizer.  We continue to suggest that with the proper percent of organic matter, the proper pH, and the proper levels of micronutrients we can help the grass use what is already in the soil and simply not available. We hope that somewhere somebody is working on a soil test that makes those macro nutrient recommendations in lbs of fish emulsion, kelp and organic humates!

The following page gives a basic description of the key points of your soil test and what we suggest you do to make the proper adjustments.  In each case we offer you both solutions that you can do on your own and products that we can provide to help make the adjustments easier. 
You can find all of the products we recommend for improving your soil conditions at our website under the “Soil Amendments” category. 

Soil Amendments

 Although we obviously suggest you do everything possible in terms of what goes on your lawn we can’t stress enough that it is just one part of many things you should do to ensure the best possible chemical free lawn.  As the summer approaches be sure you are mowing at the highest setting, watering deeply when your lawn needs it and you continue to understand that patience and a positive attitude is the most important part of having a healthy lawn.

Soil pH
This simple measure of the acidity or alkalinity in your soil is the key to healthy soil and a nice lawn.  The optimum soil pH reading will be a little bit different based on your grass type and where you live but generally you would like your pH to be between 6.5 and 7.0.  If your pH is higher than that we recommend applying sulfur.  If it is lower than that you should apply calcium carbonate and magnesium.  (Limestone is a good option)  If your soil pH is way off, your lawn will have a hard time using the nutrients that exist in your soil.  Many of the products that you apply to the lawn will also be “neutralized” because of acid levels and be less effective.  Adjusting your soil pH is very important.

Organic Matter %
The percent organic matter of your soil is a great measurement for the success of your organic approach.  An optimal level for this reading is 6 to 8 % but this is generally difficult to achieve without taking measures that are typically cost prohibitive.  The absolute best way to raise the organic matter in your soil is to have it top-dressed with organic compost.  Sometimes it is difficult to hire a company who will do this and it can be very expensive too.  More economical ways to help improve the organic content in your soil is by using compost teas or applying straight humic acid.   

Magnesium/Calcium/Copper/Manganese/Iron/Zinc
These micronutrients are essential minerals required by plants for healthy growth and development. Magnesium is essential for many plant functions including photosynthesis, (Magnesium is the central element of the chlorophyll molecule.) sugar synthesis, starch translocation and increased Iron utilization.  Often overlooked in place of the macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) these elements play a key role in the quality of your soil.  The best method of amending your soil of any of these elements is to apply a foliar concentrate that contains all of the micronutrients.

A few things we didn’t mention and why.
There are several items on the soil test that don’t require an action on your part and are only useful if the readings are extremely high or low.   This particular soil test is very detailed and can be confusing if you don’t understand the meaning behind each item.  We wanted to briefly explain a few of those items.

Buffer pH:  This is a laboratory created measurement to determine how much calcium, magnesium or sulfur is needed to adjust the actual soil pH. 

CEC: (Cation Exchange Capacity) Essentially the soils ability to absorb nutrients and is measured by the soils tendency to exchange positive and negative ions.  (I know, I know)  This measurement is really defined by the soils pH and percent organic matter.
K,Mg,Ca Percent Saturation and K/Mg Ratio Ca/Mg Ratio are also numbers that relate directly to CEC. These three nutrients are major cations in the soil and are involved in a competitive interaction with each other, as well as being affected by a fourth significant cation, hydrogen (H+). Hydrogen is significant because as the quantity of soil H+ increases, the soil becomes more acid and the soil pH decreases.  These measurements are much easily understood by looking at your soils acidity or alkalinity, percent organic matter and making the

A Chilling Essay on Web MD

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

The Chemical Legacy of the "Perfect" Lawn

Our guest blogger is Dr. Warren Porter, Professor of Zoology and Environmental Toxicology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison.

On the tenth of February, 1997, in Madison Wisconsin, where I live, the Wisconsin State Journal was running a series of articles on our schools. We have many schools of national excellence in Madison, and we are very proud of them. But this particular issue was entitled, "Cost of Accommodating: As special education grows, so does the cost of staffing." There was a chart with statistics that are very chilling. From 1990 to 1995, in the Madison school district, by disability we had an increase of 87 percent in the emotionally disturbed category over a five year period. The learning disabilities category jumped 70 percent and birth defects increased 83 percent in a five year period.

This was astonishing, so I began to dig further. We were having big increases in the state of Wisconsin. California was having big increases. Pennsylvania was having big increases. Iran, where my wife is from, was having big increases. Australia, which I had visited a couple of years earlier, was having big increases. Something was happening to our children.

We have known for decades that many pesticides are neurotoxins, they are that way by design. Studies have also shown links between pesticide use and childhood cancers. We have also shown that mixtures of common herbicides and fertilizers found in groundwater can change aggression levels, learning abilities, hormone levels and immune function in rats and mice. Pesticides are a molecular bull in a china shop when they penetrate the human cell. Depending on where they end up in the cell, they can kill it or mutate the genetic coding - and children don't have the enzymes to defend themselves.

Recently my research team bought one of the most commonly used lawn chemical mixtures right off the shelves of a local store instead of buying ultra-pure active ingredients, which is what EPA registers. We found that the mixture, at minuscule amounts well below what is considered safe by the EPA, could induce abortions and resorptions of fetuses in mice. And of particular importance, we saw things that are not typically seen in toxicology, namely that there was an inverse dose response. That is, the greatest effect was at the lowest dose. This is because natural hormones in the body work at the low parts per billion to parts per trillion dose levels. Our research was only at the high end of the physiological dose range and as we go down in dose we were approaching the most sensitive middle range.

This is a disturbing finding, to say the least. As consumers we are repeatedly told that chemical exposures are too small to cause any harm, and many people are comforted by that thought. Now we have found some chemicals are more toxic at infinitesimal levels than they are in higher quantities. This fundamentally shifts our understanding of toxicology. We can longer hide behind the argument that "the dose makes the poison." Now, we must face the reality that some poisons are simply poisons and that we have to abandon these chemicals altogether.

As a nation, we spend more than $2 billion dispensing more than 80 million pounds of pesticides on our lawns and gardens, but the tide is shifting. Nevada now offers a $1,000 incentive for homeowners to remove their grass and 80 cities in North America have banned the use of lawn pesticides. Both Ontario and Quebec have banned the cosmetic use of pesticides. Home Depot in Canada is voluntarily pulling pesticides from the shelves and replacing them with safer alternatives. In my hometown of Madison, Healthy Lawn Teams continue to promote pesticide-free neighborhoods and students at the University are pressing for safer lawn care practices on campus.

Each one of us has a role to play in breaking the habit. If you haven't switched to organic lawn and garden care, now is the time. If you have, now is the time to start working with your neighbors or your local school or hospital.

Get started by visiting the National Coalition for Pesticide-Free Lawns.

Resources:
Facing Scientific Realities, Debunking the "Dose Makes the Poison" Myth by Warren Porter, PhD

Rachel Ray likes us...how cool is that?

Rachel Ray; Caring for your lawn naturally. 

Mowing Tips

• Don't cut your grass too short, particular for cool season grasses. Higher heights usually provide for a deeper root system, looks better, and is less likely to have weeds invading, particularly crabgrass.

• Don't remove any more than one third of the grass leaf at any one cutting. If circumstances arise that a lawn gets too tall and you just have to lop off a bunch to get caught up, bite the bullet and break it down into several mowings to get caught up with 3 or so days between cuttings.

• Try to avoid mowing when the grass is wet.

• When mowing only a third with each cutting, you can safely leave clippings that will quickly decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. Contrary to popular opinion, grass clippings do not add to thatch buildup. Grass blades are made up of about 75% water.

• Mow your lawn in a different direction with each mowing, especially with lawns of shorter grass types. Altering the direction ensures a more even cut since grass blades will grow more erect and less likely to develop into a set pattern.

• Keep your mower's blade sharp, which means having it sharpened several times during the mowing season. Keep several blades around so you'll always have a sharp one on hand.

• Don't forget to change your mower's oil at least once during the mowing season.

• If you didn't drain your gas tank in the fall, or use a fuel stabilizer, don't use that old gas, it can cause a number of problems. Better to use fresh gasoline to begin the new mowing season.

First Application Instructions

 

At the request of several of our customers here is the text from the instructions that are sent with the first treatment.

Please find enclosed your springtime treatment for the Organic Lawns for America organic lawn care program.  The product comes in an easy to use hose end sprayer and is literally ready to use as soon as you put it on your hose and start spraying.  Each container will cover 4,000 square feet at the heaviest recommended rate.  Don’t worry if you apply a little bit more in a certain section of your lawn, as our organic products have no tendency to burn if they are over applied.   When you begin spraying your lawn try to cover each area as evenly as possible.  There is no right way or wrong way to apply the product.  Just go at your own pace and make sure that you are able to cover the entire lawn. 

Some people like to do the lawn once at a half rate and then go back over it again.  This first product is very different than what you would get with a chemical treatment.  It does not contain the typical Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium that a chemical treatment would have.  (Your second treatment will be more based on those nutrients.) This treatment is designed to loosen your soil and activate all the biological activity below the grass.  When this happens the grass plants will use all of the stored nutrients that are already in the soil and just unavailable to the plants.  This is the first step in cleaning your soil and giving you a healthy organic lawn.  Remember to mow as high as you can to shade out weeds and crabgrass and only water your lawn this time of year if it needs to be watered.  Usually spring rain is enough!

Your Soil Testing Kit
We have enclosed your soil testing kit along with an envelope for you to use when sending your sample to the lab.  We have filled out most of the information for you but you will need to fill out what type of grass is in your lawn by using the recommendation codes on the bottom left of the green paper.  Place this code in the box next to the “sample identification number” that we have written in for you.  (Most lawns are made up of several types of grass so choose all that are appropriate.) 

Take a soil sample using the instructions on the green sheet and fill the soil sample bag appropriately.  Do not fill past the “fill line.”  Place your soil sample and your green information sheet inside the white envelope that is provided and mail it to “Spectrum Analytic.”  We have placed a label on the envelope for you.  Depending on how wet or dry your soil is postage should be about $2.00.  (You may want to bring to post office just in case.)

When your soil test is complete we will get the results to you as soon as possible along with an explanation and any recommendations we have.   

Technical Information about our Products

Benefits of Using Soil Biologicals
•    Reduce Planting & Transplanting Shock   
•    Increase Nutrient Availability
•    Increase & Enhance Nutrient Absorption
•    Minimize Nutrient Loss Through Leaching
•    Promote Nitrogen Fixation
•    Accelerate Cell Division
•    Increase Photosynthetic Capacity For a Greener Plant
•    Improve Humus Levels in Soil
•    Provide Increased Resistance to Environmental Extremes (heat, drought, cold)
•    Kill or Control Fungal & Bacterial Diseases and Plant Pathogens
•    Stimulate Root Growth & Root Formation
•    Improve Soil Structure

BACTERIA
Bacillus organisms, isolated by soil sprinkle technique, are responsible for producing antibiotics.
The most antibiotic activity was seen in Bacillus subtilis MH-4. Other antibiotics that Bacillus subtilis form are polymyxin, difficidin, subtilin and mycobacillin. Polymyxin is effective against Gram-negative bacteria. Bacillus   subtilis bacteria secrete enzymes such as amylase, protease, pullulanase, chitinase, xylanase, lipase, among others.
The ability to maintain an alkaline soil pH with Bacillus laterosporus is the equivalent to the use of tons of lime per acre per year. Bacillus laterosporus is used in controlling plant pathogenic organisms. Ammonia nitrogen which is easily lost into the air is converted in alkaline pH soil to nitrate nitrogen which is fixed in the soil and easily assimilated by plants.
B. licheniformis isolates can mitigate the effects of fungal pathogens on maize, grasses and vegetable crops. As an endospore-forming bacterium, the ability of the organism to survive under unfavorable environmental conditions may enhance its potential as a natural biocontrol agent.
Treatment with B. megaterium resulted in a greater than 40% reduction in nematode penetration and gall formation compared with non-treated roots, and, in a separate study, colonization of roots with B. megaterium decreased migration of M. graminicola to the root zone by nearly 60% compared with that of non-treated roots.
Bacillus subtillis-Bacillus subtilis GB03 is a PGPR organism with activity against soilborne fungal root pathogens. Treatment of seed with GB03 has been reported to promote growth and increase yields in several crop species.

FUNGI
Trichoderma harzianum competes in the soil for nutrients and rhizosphere dominance with phyto-pathogenic fungi. In presence of sufficient organic carbon it produces enzymes having lytic effect on target fungi and in contrast in adverse conditions it produces toxins which are equally harmful to target fungus.
Trichoderma viride - Trichoderma viride is a fungus and a Bio Fungicide. It is used for seed and soil treatment for suppression of various diseases caused by fungal pathogens.
Trichoderma koningii - Acts as an antagonist of several phytopathogenic fungi
Trichoderma polysporum - Like the trichoderma koningii, this also acts as an antagonist of several phytopathogenic fungi

Canada Continues with Pesticide Ban

Pesticide-free lawn care means more manual work.

Ontario pesticide ban to mean lawncare changes

Updated: Mon Apr. 13 2009 5:39:20 PM

ctvtoronto.ca

Ontario homeowners used to letting pesticides do their heavy lifting for lawn care will see the rules change in just over a week.

On Earth Day, which falls on April 22, the province-wide ban kicks in.

Torontonians have a head start. The city implemented its own pesticide ban, which started on April 1, 2007. However, the province says its law supercedes municipal bylaws to "create one clear, transparent and understandable set of rules across the province."

However, newcomers to the world of pesticide-free lawn care face a learning curve.

"There really is no effective or cost-effective organic weed control alternative," Dan Passmore of Frechette Lawncare told CTV Toronto.

"We do have people that come in and they're a little worried about the pesticides going away," said George Filopoulos of the Rona home improvement store chain.  "The only way you're going to be able to get totally weed-free on your lawn is to promote a healthy lawn."

Here are some tips:

• Have your lawn aerated both now and in the fall
• Sprinkle lawn seed both now and in the fall
• Use your grass clippings as fertilizer
• Water deeply and infrequently (2.5 centimetres of water once per week)
• Pluck weeds by hand

"Another tip that you can use is when you're mowing your lawn, the longer you leave your lawn, the better," Filopoulos said.

The province also recommends that people selected grass varieties that match well with local soil and growing conditions.

"There are some new varieties of grass seeds out there that are better suited for our Ontario summers. Choose hardy grasses that don't require a lot of care and are specific for your property, either shady or sunny locations," it said.

Pesticide Free Ontario suggests homeowns should get used to a few dandelions or insects, noting that some are important to the environment.

The group also suggests that homeowners consider alternatives to grass, including:

• trees
• shrubs
• perennials
• ground covers and
• wild flowers (native species work best)

Exceptions to the ban

Here are some of the exceptions allowed by the province:

• public health and safety (including the protection of public works
  structures)
• golf courses
• specialty turf
• specified sports fields
• arboriculture
• to protect natural resources (if certain conditions are met)
• for agriculture, forestry, research and scientific purposes
• controlling wasps or mosquitoes that can transmit West Nile Virus
• killing plants that are poisonous to the touch, such as poison ivy and giant hogweed.
• to protect the health of pets (e.g. to control fleas)
• to control indoor pests or pests that can cause structural damage to the home.

The province will allow for the use of "biopesticides," which means microorganisms that can control pests and low-risk pesticides.

"If you hire a professional to look after your lawn, that person is required to post a green notice sign to notify your neighbours that biopesticides or lower risk pesticides are in use," the province said.

You might have some leftover pesticides on your property. The province encourages you to go to the Do What You Can website to learn how you can safely dispose of those chemicals.

Snow Mold

Symptoms:

Damage from snow mold fungi usually becomes apparent as the snow melts and exposes the grass in late winter. Snow mold symptoms consist of roughly circular patches (at least 3 to 12 inches) of dead and matted grass blades. In severe cases, these patches coalesce and may not be recognizable as individual circles. Just after snow melt and while the grass remains moist, it may be possible to differentiate between the two common types of snow mold by their color. The web-like mycelium of pink snow mold  may initially look white and mature to a faint pink to salmon color. Gray snow mold  is white to gray in color. The mycelium of both types of fungi will disappear quickly as the grass dries. A useful identifying characteristic of gray snow mold is the presence of tiny brown to black mycelial masses  on the blades and in the leaf sheaths of infected plants. These survival structures vary in size and color, becoming smaller and darker as they dry. The pink snow mold fungus does not produce sclerotia.

It is useful to determine whether the disease is pink or gray snow mold because gray snow mold rarely damages more than the blades of the grass. Lawns with gray snow mold can be expected to recover fairly quickly even when damage appears extensive. Pink snow mold, in contrast, may invade the crowns and roots causing more serious injury. It is not unusual for both types of snow mold to be found in the same area. All common lawn grasses may be infected, but Kentucky bluegrass-fescue lawns are the least susceptible to severe damage.

Gray snow mold on turfgrass and close-up of mycelium
Characteristic pink snow mold symptoms on turfgrass and close-up of mycelium

 If your lawn appears to be affected by snow mold don't panic.  In most cases it will go away as soil temperatures increase and the turf begins to grow.  You should lightly rake the affected areas to allow the areas to dry out and let some air get to the soil surface.